In the past few years, luxury companies and animal protectionists have waged a long battle on animal fur. In recent days, animal protectionists who had achieved a staged victory in this war seem to have found a new target - animal feather products.
Feathers have a long history of being used for clothing. In the ancient Chinese Tang Dynasty, it was recorded that the Princess of the Tang Dynasty, An Le Princess, once captured the world's birds and made two expensive birds' feather skirts. In 2017 Chanel's spring-summer high-profile stage, the evening dress with feathers also became the highlight of the series.
Feathers are generally considered lightweight animal by-products compared to fur. Feathers in the fashion industry, including down jackets, feather decorations, etc., mostly come from chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, and beautifully colored pheasants in poultry, and are often chemically treated and dyed when used.
But some of these feathers are not animal by-products, such as a wide variety of birds with colored feathers. For them, although feathers are used as production, they will not directly lead to death, but people who do not have proper ways to pick up animal feathers will inevitably cause them to injure or even indirectly kill them.
According to fashion united reports, although explicit provisions in EU law have pointed out that the live-picking of animal feathers is prohibited, it is also pointed out that obtaining feathers during the natural molting cycle of birds is a legal category. However, most of the time because it is impossible to define whether the feathers are picked within the scope of the law, these legal provisions have not only reduced the degree of bird injuries, but have stimulated the consumption of feather garment industry.
“Feathers are not humans that follow humanism. They may come from birds that died as a result of fear. This also includes down products. Many farmers obtain additional profits by selling animal feathers. To a certain extent, the purchase of feather products is also equivalent. In support of cruelty to animals." The Animal Rights Organization, which owns more than 6 million members, treats fashion united with PETA.
A relevant video of the feather industry released by the organization in 2017 shows that on farms in China, many farmers are taking feathers from living birds, and this behavior is almost 80% of feathers in the feather and garment industry. For the apparel industry, it meets the consumer's criteria for down goods, but it actually violates humanitarianism.
In spite of this, for the time being, finding the raw materials that can replace feathers, especially down jackets, is far less straightforward than making artificial fur. In particular, brands such as Canadian geese and Moncler, which are mainly down products, are less likely to easily change their traditional ski jackets.
In order to better regulate feather products, the fashion industry has begun to promote the downsizing of the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certification, a global non-profit organization that has been committed to the sustainable development of apparel and textiles. --- The establishment of a textile exchange can ensure the traceability of down products by recording animal information, and avoid the behavior of barbaric captive animals for obtaining feathers. In 2015, SALEWA launched a fully RDS-certified down product.
In addition, some brands are gradually looking for alternative materials for decorative feathers that are often used to dress up cocktail dresses, bags and accessories. Stephen Jones, who once designed hats for Dior, said that although he has been using animal feathers to make hats, he is also looking for artificial materials such as plastics, polyester fibers, foam and gauze as alternatives.
In other words, as long as farmers, designers, retailers, enterprise groups and members of the supply chain can choose to respect animal rights, the supply chain of the feather industry can actually be traced. However, this does not mean that feather clothing is completely harmless to animals. How to maintain the balance between production value and humanitarianism requires these brands to think more seriously, otherwise it is hard to say whether feathers will become a fashion industry. The second "animal fur".
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