The main reasons for the poor wet rubbing fastness of textiles are the floating transfer of water-soluble dyes and the mechanical friction transfer of colored fiber particles (10-40 μm). The wet rubbing fastness of the dyed cloth refers to the rubbing of the dyed cloth sample with the wet white cloth according to the specified conditions, and the comparison between the staining degree on the white cloth and the standard gray staining sample card, that is, the dye molecules and the colored fiber microparticles pass. The degree to which the interface contact is transferred to the test white cloth. Under the same fabric, the same dye, the same pre-treatment and dyeing process conditions, the deeper the color, the worse the wet rubbing fastness.
Increasing the wet rubbing fastness of reactive dye deep-colored fabrics is one of the important ways to improve the quality of textiles and overcome the barriers to textile exports. The water-soluble groups in the reactive dye molecules are beneficial for dye dissolution and dyeing, but are the main factors causing poor wet rub resistance of dyed fabrics. Due to the presence of water on the wet white cloth, the reactive dye has a tendency to break away from the fabric into the water. Therefore, for the same reactive dye dye, the dry rubbing fastness can reach 4 to 5 grades, and the wet rubbing fastness of 2 to 3 grades is also difficult. Measures to improve wet rubbing fastness 1. Select reactive dyes with less floating color after dyeing Floating color is the main reason for the unsatisfactory wet rubbing fastness of deep-colored fabrics. Reactive dyes for reactive dyes, including dyes that have been adsorbed onto the fibers but not reacted with the fibers, partially hydrolyzed dyes, and sulfate-depleted vinylsulfone-based dyes. The total amount of the floating dye can be expressed by the difference between the final dye uptake ratio E and the final fixation ratio F in the reactive dye staining characteristic value SERF value, that is, the EF value. Therefore, it is necessary to use a reactive dye having a small amount of floating color after dyeing, that is, a dye having a low EF value, in order to remove the floating color. If the fixing rate is high, the dye is fixed after the dye is dyed, and the amount of floating color can be greatly reduced. For example, Cibacron C type, F type, Procion H-EXL and other reactive dyes have a fixing rate higher than 80%, and the amount of floating color after dyeing is relatively small, which is favorable for removing floating color. However, the final dye uptake rate E has a certain relationship with the dye uptake rate S, so the directness of the reactive dye cannot be too high. Generally, a reactive dye having a fixing ratio F of less than 70% and an EF value of more than 15% is difficult to remove from the floating color, and is not suitable for dyeing deep dark colors.
Second, choose a reactive dye with high lifting power
Deep dark dyeing uses a high concentration of dye and an increase in the amount of floating dye. The fiber has a saturation value for the adsorption of the dye, and the dye concentration generally should not exceed 10% of the dye saturation value. Excess dye can not be dyed and fixed, and will accumulate on the surface of the fabric, thereby affecting the wet rubbing fastness of the dyed product. For dyeing deep dark colors, it is necessary to use a reactive dye with high lifting power. Multi-reactive reactive dyes developed in recent years, such as Cibacron Crimson SB, have a lifting power three times that of a typical red reactive dye (such as CI Reactive Red 239, 195); other tri- reactive dyes such as Cibacron Red C-2G (CI Reactive Red) 228) There are two vinylsulfone groups and one monochlorotriazine group, and Cibacron Red FN-3G (CI Reactive Red 266) has one of a chlorotriazine group, a monofluorotriazine and a vinyl sulfone group, Remazol Red BS. There are two vinylsulfone groups and one monochlorotriazine group. They all have excellent high exhaustion rate, high fixation rate and high lifting power, and their hydrolysis dyes are easy to remove. Third, reasonable dyeing and finishing processing technology In addition to the correct selection of dyes, a reasonable dyeing and finishing process can also improve wet rubbing fastness. The smoother the surface of the fabric, the higher the wet rubbing fastness, so the singeing should be clean and the colored nits should be reduced. The dyeing effect of the dyed semi-finished product directly affects the transfection property when the dye is dyed. The better the transmissibility, the better the dye diffuses into the fiber after dyeing, which is beneficial to reduce the accumulation of dye on the surface of the fabric. The addition of penetrant and mercerizing treatment are all beneficial to improve wet rubbing fastness. The degree of washing of the floating dyes is related to their directness to the fibers. The most direct vinylsulfone-based dye is the most difficult to remove, followed by the hydrolysis dye. The unreacted β-sulfate vinyl sulfone dye, which is the least soluble, is the most easily removed chromophoric dye due to the presence of sulfate-soluble groups. By washing with water and soaping, the floating color and electrolyte and alkali agent can be removed. The auxiliaries used for soaping must have good penetrability, are easy to affinity with the dye, and form micelles, which reduce the affinity of the dye to the fibers, forming an inner core to stably disperse the dye micelles in water. It can be selected from the combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants with osmotic and dispersing functions, otherwise it will not achieve the effect of thoroughly washing out the floating color. Water quality is a very important factor. If the water hardness is high, the water-soluble groups of the floating dye will form a lake that is hardly soluble in water, which will seriously affect the removal of the floating dye. The drying method is also important, and the contact drying dye has a higher molecular transfer amount than the non-contact drying.
Fourth, the control of dyed fabric surface ph value
In the dyeing process of reactive dye deep-dense fabrics, the amount of alkali is high, and it is necessary to strengthen the washing. The ph value of the dyed fabric surface should be controlled at 6.5-7.5 (the technical standard of Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is ph value 4.0-7.5 and 4.0-9.0) to prevent the alkaline medium from breaking the ether bond between the vinyl sulfone group and the fiber. fade. Fifth, dyed fabric surface finish The worse the surface finish of the dyed fabric, the greater the coefficient of friction between the test white cloth and the effective contact surface, and therefore the wet rubbing fastness is lowered. Eco-Label stipulates that the wet rubbing fastness is at least 2 to 3, but the thick twill denim is allowed to be 2, because the twill has a higher coefficient of friction than the plain weave. Under the same conditions, the wet rubbing fastness of dyed fabrics is as follows: Satin fabric < poplin fabric < plain weave < twill fabric < velvet fabric < calendered fabric < conventional fabric < raised fabric Sixth, fabric damage Many finishing agents can damage the fabric strength while improving the function, such as durable non-iron resin condensate, flame retardant and sanitizing agent, etc., so that the degree of polymerization (DP) of the cotton fiber is lowered, thereby increasing the number of colored fiber granules. Wet rubbing fastness is reduced. Seven, special fixing agent The special fixing agent can improve the wet rubbing fastness of the deep concentrated reactive dyed fabric by 0.5-1.0. The requirements are as follows: (1) A polymer compound capable of forming a film, generally a polyurethane or a silicone having a functional group (-OH, -NH2), and a cross-linking agent and a high-molecular polymer cross-linking to make it durable and fast. Membrane. (2) No color change, no yellowing, no reduction in light fastness. (3) It can reduce the friction coefficient of the fabric and improve the hand feeling of the fabric. (4) The cotton fabric is still kept breathable and moisture permeable.
In addition to some of the above improvements, a auxiliaries have recently introduced auxiliaries that improve wet rubbing fastness. These auxiliaries are high molecular compounds containing functional groups such as -OH, -NH2, and utilize ethylene oxide end groups. The cross-linking agent forms a film on the surface of the fabric to isolate the dye on the surface of the fabric from contact with the test white cloth of the anti-friction tester. Such a polymer compound also functions as a softening agent to lower the film formation coefficient, and to reduce the frictional resistance between the test cloth and the fabric when the rubbing fastness is measured, thereby improving the wet rubbing fastness of the fabric. For example, the following molecular structure of a silicone polymer compound:
These additives quickly form a durable film on the dyed fabric, without reducing the light fastness, colorlessness, and softness. (Guo Shimin)
Source | Printing and dyeing learning and communication
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